- Ptgui nadir viewpoint manual#
- Ptgui nadir viewpoint Patch#
- Ptgui nadir viewpoint full#
- Ptgui nadir viewpoint pro#
- Ptgui nadir viewpoint software#
I shoot anywhere between 3 brackets +-2/3 up to 7 brackets 2 stops apart depending on the lighting conditions.ĥ.
Ptgui nadir viewpoint pro#
If you have to go lower or higher for a reason do it in a few steps.Ĥ.I measure my colour temp with a Lightspectrum Pro app and set my average White balance accordingly for each room depending on the lighting. Pick a height and stay with it otherwise the Cupix experience gets a bit strange if you vary the height too much. I do this normally for highest quality panos only or I use my fully adjustable Nodal Ninja 3.ģ. Use viewpoint correction in PTGui for this picture when stitching.
![ptgui nadir viewpoint ptgui nadir viewpoint](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/trYQ61_bOb0/0.jpg)
Pick the tripod up and stabilize it against your body whilst positioning the nodal point with the camera pointing downward above your marker and take your picture. Lock the camera on the rotator so it cannot slide around.
Ptgui nadir viewpoint Patch#
If it is required to shoot the nadir as well (which it is not in required in Cupix, your nadir patch can be automatically added or you can set the viewpoint to exclude the nadir)you can use a handheld technique: After you have shot your 4 around images, Place a small marker on the floor (coin etc) directly under your nodal point.
Ptgui nadir viewpoint full#
The Nodal Ninja R20 is automatically tilted 7.5 degrees upwards to cover the zenith and requires 4 shots around on a 12mm fisheye with a full frame sensor or 8mm fisheye with a cropped (APS-C) Sensor. You waste a lot of sensor pixels and have to shoot 6 shots around to cover instead of 4Ģ. Otherwise you just get a circular image on a black background when using 8mm on a full frame. Plus 1 plus 1 plus 1 Use an 8mm fisheye for cropped sensor and a 12mm for a full frame sensor. Join the 360 Panoramic Photographer Group on Facebook There is a wealth of information and discussions going on. It also allows you much bigger tours within the Cupix workspace size restraints as you will be working with image sizes of about 13500 x 7750px at about 10-12 Mb each. (There is no visible quality deterioration using Jpeg mini) This significantly reduces your processing times in both PTGui Pro and Cupix without compromising quality. Also, run the equirectangular files through Jpeg mini post stitching. I would recommend that you complete your Image processing in Photomatix/Lightroom etc Save as Jpegs and run the images through the Jpeg Mini app to reduce the file sizes before proceeding to the stitching software. It takes extra time to Merge the photos and stitch the DSLR, but you control the quality and dynamic range of the images.
![ptgui nadir viewpoint ptgui nadir viewpoint](http://www.ptgui.com/images/vptut/IMG_2620.jpg)
I have done a lot of testing between the Ricoh vs DSLR and the shooting time is about the same. If you need a Nadir shot you can do it handheld and use viewpoint correction in PTGui for the perfect Equirectangular. If your nodal point is stable (don't bump the camera) then it will auto stitch most of the time.
Ptgui nadir viewpoint software#
You have long straight lines with very few control point.)īest stitching software for me it PTGui Pro. (Be careful with shooting Zenith shots in Real Estate as you do not have texture-rich images shooting ceilings. For Cupix you don't need a Nadir shot or you can Nadir patch with your branding. It is tilted 7.5 degrees upwards and does not need a Zenith shot. Use a Nodal Ninja r20 with its specific lens ring. Using the 8mm will take 6 shots around vs 4 with the 12mm. Plus 1 plus 1 plus 1 Get a Samyang 12mm with your Nikon D750.
![ptgui nadir viewpoint ptgui nadir viewpoint](https://echosbyerik.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/nadir-edit-1.png)
Unless you've got a huge tripod or are a tiny person that likes to crouch you inevitably will need to separate yourself from the camera and duck behind a wall/table/plant for every shot which adds time and effort to the collection with a point-and-shoot compared to a DSLR on a nodal head.Īre you able to post the tour to share the quality you achieved? My findings with a DSLR is that it requires quite a bit more concentration and energy but it can be faster to get in and out of a site because you never have to separate from the camera. Are you using the latest firmware and have you dropped the ISO as low as it can go? One of the best virtues of the Theta V is it's ease of use, good stitching right out of the camera, and on-board HDR so it's a good camera if you're using these features.
Ptgui nadir viewpoint manual#
There are other point and shoot cameras with bracketing and manual options (and higher resolution), that might be a good bet if you are going this route. Theta V has a bracketing option but I do not believe you can auto-adjust exposure, it's entirely manual. Photomatix is popular for point and shoot because of batch processing tools and the "360 image" option in HDR settings.